Since it first opened in December 2006, Square Restaurant in
Senggigi Square has been setting the standard for fine dining in
Senggigi – or perhaps, Lombok.
From the beginning, the food at Square was lauded as a cut above
the rest, both in terms of quality and style. In contrast to the
other restaurants in Senggigi, Square Restaurant focused on
innovative fare more normally found in the upmarket restaurants
of Bali. The stylish design of the restaurant, the professional
service and the quality of the meals offered, placed Square in a
category of its own.
In July, 2007 Executive Chef Eka Arsana was transported from
Bali to head up the kitchen team, and the meals and presentation
became better than ever. Having served his apprenticeship at the
Four Seasons in Ubud, and arriving directly from the acclaimed
Dava Restaurant at the Ritz Carlton in Bali, Chef Eka took the
Square standard to a higher level.
Now the restaurant is raising the fine dining bar yet again with
the appointment of Executive Chef, Wayan Budiana in June 2008.
Chef Wayan has been involved in the restaurant scene in Bali for
many years, most notably at the hugely successful fine dining
restaurant, Mozaic. His working history includes stints at such
other renowned places as “Wild Ginger”, “Legian Suite” and “Alam
Kul Kul”, before he returned once again to Mozaic, under the
tutelage of Executive Chef, Chris Salan.
It’s unusual for a chef of Wayan’s calibre to be lured away from
the bright lights of the Bali restaurant scene, but when asked
how Square had enticed him away from Mozaic, Wayan replied, “I
worked with Chris at Legian Suite and Mozaic and other places,
so this is time to fly on my own. I have a lot of experience,
and I hope I can bring something special to Square”. Smiling his
infectious smile, he went on to say, “I don’t want to be always
behind someone else in the kitchen. I want to show my ability –
I want to fly!”
At a special sampling of some of Wayan’s creations last week, he
proved he is capable of making diners’ palates fly! We were
treated to such delights as Australian Harvey Beef with blue
cheese sauce and citrus segments; rack of lamb served medium
rare with black olive sauce, mashed potatoes, and caramelized
onions with rosemary; king prawns and Asian vegetables infused
with ginger and lemongrass; and a delightful papaya sorbet with
Italian basil and pineapple sauce. From the amuse bouche of
fresh sashimi, which had a perfect balance of wasabi and pickled
ginger, to the dessert of sinfully rich chocolate cake with
raspberry coulis and vanilla ice cream, the food was a gourmet’s
delight.
Speaking to Square owner Alfiano Tio after the meal, I asked him
what drove him to create Square and, despite its success, to
keep pushing the standards to higher levels. “I want to upgrade
the standard of food in Senggigi,” he said. “I’m not satisfied
when I go to Bali and see that so restaurants are better than in
Lombok. I think it’s good if Lombok can have fine dining
restaurants of the same standard as Bali.”
We agree, Pak Alfi, and – judging by the full tables most nights
– so does everyone else!
